A little over 40 years ago, a father and his son opened a candy company in Randolph, Mass. They based their hand-made candies on recipes perfected by their Grandpa Francis Melville in the early 20th century. By all indications it’s been a successful business, and Melville Candy Company is today known for high-quality, whimsical treats. Check out the Halloween treats they are making this month; this stuff looks amazing!

Sadly, I’ve had a hard time finding their products here on the west coast. But the other day I did find a small selection of their Monster Marshmallow lollipops at BevMo. I picked one up to go with my pumpkin beer, and now I’ll share the results with you.

1. Packaging. Another cellophane bag, which means another two points. (I continue to appreciate the manufacturer’s willingness to let the potential consumer see the actual treat before purchasing it.) But I’m also adding another point, for the attached tag. Check out these paeans to Halloween: (1) orange and black lettering; (2) cartoon illustration of a marshmallow monster complete with limbs; (3) floating, disembodied eyeballs near the top of the card; (4) the salutation “Happy Halloween.” And then this tag is tied to the stick with a festive orange ribbon. These Melville folks are really getting into the spirit of things. 3 points.

2. Appearance of the Treat. This thing is awesome! It’s got a little bit of a Sponge Bob vibe going on, at least in terms of the shape. The googly eyes are of different sizes, which adds to the comic effect. And then it’s heavily doused with yellow, orange, and blue sprinkles. The resulting monster looks like it could have been created at Jim Henson’s muppet workshop. This is an appealing confection indeed. 3 points.

3. Taste. `As you’ve seen from previous posts, I’m not enthralled with marshmallow-based treats. But Melville’s Monster Marshmallow pops are special. They start with a marshmallow center that’s well-formed and solid without being tough. Then comes the magic that sets this apart from others: It’s dipped in some kind of a “chocolately coating before the sprinkles are added. Now, this “chocolately coating definitely isn’t real chocolate. I don’t think it even qualifies as chocolatey, if you ask me. The ingredients list claims the coating is made with sugar, milk, whey, buttermilk, cocoa, lactose, and vanilla. So, maybe it’s white chocolate? Or white chocolatey? In any event, this coating seems to serve three purposes. First, it’s what the sprinkles adhere to. It’s how they’re able to get such a thick, even layer of sprinkles to stay on the pop. Second, the coating imparts a taste of its own. I’d describe it as a cross between white chocolate and the green creme of a Frankencup. Finally, this “chocolatey” coating results in a satisfying crunch as you crack through it to get to the soft marshmallow underneath. Old Man Melville sure knew a thing or two about perfecting marshmallow pops! This was a fun and tasty treat. 3 points.

4. Value. This 2-ounce treat cost me three bucks. Which seems like a lot of cabbage for a single-serve treat. But the design, mouthfeel, taste, and hand-dipped artistry of this Halloween confection certainly justifies some extra cost. Plus, it’s imported all the way from the Bay State. I’ll give it 2 points.

Steve’s Sweetoberfest Score: 11 out of 12 points, which makes it a definite TREAT. We have a new high score!

Over the last 15 years or so pumpkin beers have been as much a part of the fall season as, say, pumpkin spice lattes at Starbucks and Christmas displays at Home Depot. Pumpkin beer is a fun idea, but in general the execution never lives up to the hype. Beer is supposed to be malty and hoppy (in varying degrees), so the addition of pumpkin imparts an unusual flavor. I’ve tried a number of pumpkin beers over the years, and none has really lit my candle, as it were. One of the problems is that these beers typically start with a lager base, and I think we can all agree that lagers are the scourge of the beer world. They’re light and watery and have almost no alcohol and even less flavor, and the smell reminds me of high school keggers. Not that I’ve ever been to one.

So imagine my glee when I came across a bottle of 10 Barrel Brewing Company’s entry into this genre, “Jamaican Me Pumpkin.” (As for the name: I confess that I don’t quite get the Jamaican reference. I mean, I get the “You’re Makin'” semi-pun, but “You’re makin’ me pumpkin” makes no sense. There’s no particular Jamaican influence about pumpkins, is there? And 10 Barrels Brewing Co. is just a place up in Bend, Oregon founded by 3 bro’s. Maybe there’s some Jamaican double entendre I’m not aware of?

Anyway, it gets better. The label clearly distinguishes this beer from the usual pumpkin beers. First, it’s aged in rum barrels, for three years. That’s something you don’t run into with most beers. Second, it’s an imperial pumpkin beer, meaning it’s high alcohol (in this case, 10 percent alcohol). Nothing like those wussy pumpkin beers they sell at the grocery store. So, this shows promise. Let’s get down to the tasting!

1. Packaging. Even though there is no overt Halloween theme, they’ve packaged this pumpkin beer well. The label prominently features pumpkin-orange writing, complete with an indecipherable Jamaican pun. The mouth of the bottle is dipped in matching orange wax, much in the style of Maker’s Mark. This is classy packaging. I’m giving it 3 points.
2. Appearance of the Treat. This beer has a lovely copper color…not quite pumpkin orange (which wouldn’t be appetizing in a beer), but unusual enough to signify that we’ve got something special here. The beer pours with a very subtle, creamy head that leaves a nice lacing on the side of the glass. (Note that the barware I selected for this beer is the Edgar Allen Poe glass given to me by my friend Chris.) The beer doesn’t have much of a nose, which is something that could never be said about me. But as it looks back at you from the glass, it’s both inviting and attractive. I’ll give it 2 points. (It would have been three, if it had a thicker head or a more prominent nose.)

3. Taste. I raised the glass to my lips, drew in the almost absent nose, and took a small sip. I was underwhelmed. There was no real pumpkin taste to speak of, and very little spice, and I don’t think those rum barrels imparted any of their flavor. This beer mainly tasted like sour beer (a style that confusingly was very popular about 10 years ago.) I took another sip. And another. And it really didn’t ever get much better. Jamaican me frustrated. No points.

4. Value. So, this 22 ounce bottle cost $17. That’s way more than I’m normally willing to pay for even a six pack. (If you talk to my wife, please don’t mention the price. I’ve allowed her to assume it’s the the same $5-8 bucks that I’d normally pay for a bomber.) I think I’d classify this as a ripoff. No points.

Steve’s Sweetoberfest Score: 5 out of 12 points, which makes it a modest TRICK. Save your money!

Attentive readers will remember that frosted sugar cookies, especially with whimsical designs, are one of my (many) weaknesses. They will also recall that I was disappointed in the frosted mummy cookie from DecoCookies. Well, my search for a tasty Halloween sugar cookie continues, and I’ve nabbed a Frankenstein cookie from Hyde and Eek. Hyde and Eek appears to be the house brand of a line of Halloween decorations at Target. But a quick internet search finds Amazon also carries this line. Given that it’s already mid-October, the Hyde and Eek section of Target is getting pretty picked over, and most of the packaged sugar cookies looked the worse for wear. I nabbed the one with the least damage.

1. Packaging. We’ve got the now-familiar cellophane package, with the Hyde and Eek logo and the usual descriptive wording. I’m still willing to give it a point for transparency. Without it, I would have come home with one of the shopworn, cracked and crumbly messes that were on the same shelf.
2. Appearance of the Treat. Whoever “hand decorated” this cookie admittedly showed more care than the person working on those pumpkins at See’s. They’ve created a goofy Frankenstein face with googly eyes, a twisty mouth, and a Lurch haircut. The green icing is generously and evenly applied. Overall, it’s a pretty cute job. 3 points.

3. Taste. Curses! Foiled again! It seems that it’s an impossible dream to find a tasty, soft-baked sugar cookie with rich icing…that’s also shelf-stable enough to be pre-packaged and sit on a shelf at Target for a month or two. This cookie is pretty dry and crumbly, and so is the icing. The cookie doesn’t have much flavor either, tasting mainly like floury cardboard. The icing is slightly sweet, but not enough to save the cookie. I’m left wishing that the Target employees had been able to better “Hyde” this cookie from me. No points.

4. Value. It was a buck, which isn’t unreasonable for a passable sugar cookie. The thing is, though, this isn’t a passable sugar cookie. 1 point.

Steve’s Sweetoberfest Score: 5 out of 12 points, which makes it a modest TRICK. I’m really hoping I can find a good Halloween sugar cookie before the month is out…

I read in the morning paper that today Dunkin’ Donuts is introducing a new Halloween donut. Actually, the place evidently is no longer called “Dunkin’ Donuts,” but rather just “Dunkin’.” So not only have they given up on the noun in their name, all they’re left with is an adjective (or maybe a verb, depending on how you look at it). And it’s not even a complete word, since they long ago ditched the “G.” Such mistreatment of the English language normally would be enough for me to “write” off a business. And to tell the truth, I’m not sure that I’ve ever been to a Dunkin’ Donuts. Or to a Dunkin’, for that matter. But the morning’s news had me thinking that I needed to pay them a visit. For they’ve introduced a Spicy Ghost Pepper donut. This brings together three things that I value: a Halloween theme, a donut, and a high Scoville number. So I took a drive to the local Dunkin’, which let’s just say isn’t in the high rent part of town, and asked for the new Halloween donut at their drive-up window. The disembodied voice behind the speaker on the sign where I placed my order asked if I wanted the Spider donut or the Ghost pepper donut. Worried that this might be a trick question I asked for both. Let’s review what I got!

1. Packaging. All they did was dump my donuts into their standard bag. But that’s SOP, and I don’t want to ding them too much for not having a festive, Halloween-themed bag. Let’s just give them a point and move on.
2. Appearance of the Treats. Check out this Spider Donut:

Is that awesome, or what? The body (thorax? head?) of the spider is made with a chocolate donut hole, and the legs are chocolate icing. (The pedipalps appear to be missing, but I’ll overlook that.) The glaring orange eyes match the festive, pumpkin-orange icing on the main donut. This is one of the most imaginative and well-executed Halloween treats I’ve seen. Definitely 3 points.

Moving on to the Ghost Pepper donut. As much as I appreciate the play on “ghost” pepper for the holiday, I’m disappointed they didn’t get more into the visual, um, “spirit” of the thing. Couldn’t they make the whole thing a pearlescent white? Or put some eyes on it? Or shape it like a ghost? The red sprinkles do signify heat, but they don’t signify Halloween. 1 point.

3. Taste. The spider donut is a well-made donut with a sweet taste that’s rich without being heavy. Each bite has a spongy-soft, melt-on-your-tongue mouthfeel to it. And while the main donut isn’t filled with anything, it gives the impression of custard. The spider’s body has a nice chocolate taste that keeps things interesting. 3 points.

And now we arrive at the whole point of today’s outing: To sink our teeth into the Ghost Pepper donut. The ghost pepper is supposedly one of world’s the hottest peppers, so it’s a clever marketing strategy to dare manly men like me to prove our manliness by pushing the envelope on heat consumption.

Like the spider donut, the mouthfeel of this donut is excellent. And the first thing you taste are the strawberry icing and the sugar sprinkles. It’s a pleasant taste, but it’s certainly not at all hot. But then, after 5 to 10 seconds, the heat begins to materialize. It’s distinct, but not overwhelming. Sort of like cinnamon gum. Certainly I’ve had hotter taste experiences from a Costco pepperoni pizza. This donut did not get me to break a sweat. For something that’s justified almost solely on the basis of its heat, this was a disappointment. No points.

4. Value. These donuts were $1.49 each. For the spider, I’d call that a damn good value. 3 points. It seems a little steep for the ghost pepper donut, though. It’s just not that special. Definitely there’s less volume and less labor involved, compared with the spider donut. I can only give it 1 point.

Steve’s Sweetoberfest Score for Spider Donut: 10 out of 12 points, which is a solid TREAT.

Steve’s Sweetoberfest Score for Spicy Ghost Pepper Donut: 3 out of 12 points, which makes it a disappointing TRICK.