You know, all these little 50 ml bottles are almost perfect miniature versions of the full-size bottles, with the same general shape and the same labeling and, of course, the same spirit visible through the glass or plastic. But the giveaway is the cap, which is grotesquely out of proportion with the bottle. It’s comically huge and clunky and destroys the illusion. We can put a man on the moon, and yet no one has yet figured out how to do a cap or cork to proper scale?

Such was my chain of thought when I removed today’s spirit from its Advent Drawer. And that spirit is Painted Stave Bourbon Whiskey.

Now, I know what you’re thinking: Another bourbon? And the answer is, technically, yes, but this one seems to be going out of its way to be different. For starters, it’s not made in Kentucky but rather Delaware, a state known more for soybeans than whiskey. Second, it uses an unusually high proportion of rye. (Recall that to make a bourbon, over half of the grain used must be corn. For most bourbons, about 10 percent is rye. Painted Stave uses 26 percent.) Third, there’s that purple label. In my experience, almost all bourbons use dark or muted colors, to evoke age and solid stability and no-nonsense tradition. This label looks like it belongs on a bottle of Fabuloso.

Anyway, here’s the blurb from their website:

“Painted Stave Delaware Style Bourbon is rested in new, charred American oak for at least six years and represents Delaware’s first Bourbon from Delaware’s first craft distillery. We distill a mash of Corn, Rye and Malted Barley (66:26:8) and age for at least 6 years in heavily charred barrels for a bold whiskey flavor. It is then bottled at 94 proof in house. Its nose presents Vanilla, Caramel, Spice, Apple, and Spiced Cookie notes, with hints Oak. In the mouth one finds corn sweetness, that give way to dry spicy notes of cinnamon, raisin, and white pepper.”

All that remains now is for us to try a shot of the stuff. Here ‘goes.

Appearance: This looks a little richer or darker than yesterday’s bourbon. I’d call it an orangish copper, kind of like the poorly-dyed hair of the lady who worked at the Rexall down the street from us when I was growing up.

Aroma: There’s something very fruity about the aroma of this bourbon. I get apples and currants that had been stored in the pantry next to the Duncan Hines vanilla cake mix and then placed on your patio table under a hot summer sun.

Taste: This is really hot and spicy. I might even go so far as to say hot ‘n’ spicy. Some spice is to be expected with so much rye, but this comes across more like cayenne. There’s also an astringent quality that reminds me of rubbing alcohol. That might be good for cleaning an abrasion, but I’m not convinced it works as a drink.

Finish: A few years back I had a colonoscopy. And readers of a certain age know what it’s like to drink the “prep,” which is positively disgusting. You have to knock back like a couple of liters of the stuff over the course of an evening. When you finally finish the last gulp, you are exhausted but relieved. You’ve gotten past the worst of it.

That’s what the finish on this bourbon is like.

Bottom Line: The Delawareans should stick to soybeans.

I spent about five years of my squandered early adulthood in Kentucky, about 100 miles from Louisville’s famed and historic Distillery Row. And yet I never went to a bourbon distillery during that time. Years later, I found myself on a trip along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, and made a stop at a place in downtown Louisville called the Evan Williams Experience–which sounds like a tribute band show at an Indian casino. The EWE is essentially a visitor center, Disney ride, propaganda machine, and boutique distillery for Evan Williams, which claims to be Kentucky’s “oldest licensed distiller.” 

Now, I didn’t know much about bourbon at that time (and, if truth be told, I still don’t), but as I passed through the dioramas of 18th-century distilling techniques, sampled small pours of their bourbon, and was lectured by a hologram of Evan Williams himself, I came to believe that I should become a bourbon drinker. For a short time I drank only Evan Williams bourbon, but over time I was introduced to other brands, and I forgot all about Evan Williams. Such is the tenuousness of my brand loyalty.

But with today’s Advent Spirit I am reunited with Evan. Will he live up to my memory, or will he let me down? Let’s find out.

First, here’s the blurb from their website:

“Our Kentucky Straight Bourbon is full of character and simply done right. Named after Evan Williams, who opened Kentucky’s First Distillery along the banks of the Ohio River in 1783, it’s aged far longer than required by law. The result is a Bourbon that’s smooth, rich, and easy to enjoy.”

OK, that sounds pretty good. Let’s try it.

Appearance: The color reminds me of yellow Paas easter egg dye when it’s first mixed with vinegar. It’s a little brighter than I’d expect from a bourbon. Let’s hope this doesn’t presage a brassy taste.

Aroma: There’s a pleasant mix of the scents of clove, vanilla, and fresh morning dew on pasture grass. 

Taste: I taste lots of citrus. A strong taste of orange peel dominates, with a little lemon and grapefruit. It’s a round, wholesome flavor that keeps you raising the glass for another sip. I taste a little toffee and cinnamon in the background, but it’s really that orange that predominates.

Finish: The finish is warm and satisfying. A sweet dextrose flavor, reminiscent of candy cigarettes, lingers at the end.

Bottom Line: There is something distinctive about this bourbon, and I think it has something to do with that orange peel flavor. It’s a good sipping bourbon, but I would never return to making it my go-to drink.