I arrived in Beantown this morning about 6:30, got a good cup of coffee, and soon was in temporary possession of a Nissan Altima (which, I’m told, is specifically designed with an eye to the rental trade). Everything was moving along according to schedule.
Things gummed up considerably when I drove out of the airport and entered Boston’s rush hour traffic. It took me over half an hour to drive five miles. But finally, I was at Kenmore Square, right next to Fenway Park, and under the giant Citgo sign that gives this fair city light. This is where Route 20 begins (or ends, depending on your perspective.)

I know there’s a lot to do in Boston. I know it’s a great town. In fact, it wasn’t that long ago that friend Vic and I made a visit that I wrote about in this blog post. But today is not that day. I’ve got a lot of miles to travel, and the focus is on the gentle, low-key life of everyday America, not on a teeming capital city of about 650,000 souls. So I spent most of the morning just trying to escape the metro area.
But eventually, the traffic began to subside and I found myself in the city of Worcester (pop: 200,000). It’s still a biggish city, but I spent a pleasant, quiet hour surrounded by smiley faces. Let me explain.
I was at the Worcester Historical Museum, which dates back to 1875. It recently moved to a stately brick building that used to be the headquarters of the Worcester County Horticultural Society. Upon entering I was greeted by the estimable Deb, who grew up in the town and has encyclopedic knowledge of everything that’s happened over the past 150 years. Oh, did I mention this year is their 150th anniversary, and I got in for free?

Among the firehose of factoids she shared, the one that made the greatest impression is that the humble and ubiquitous Smiley Face was invented in Worcester in 1963.

It was designed by a local artist named Harvey Ball, who was commissioned by an insurance company to design a moral-boosting image for their staff. If you were alive in the 1960s or 1970s, you know how the Smiley became a pop culture phenomenon. And of course it remains omnipresent today, adorning WalMart uniforms and, much more importantly, morphing into the emojis that adorn the majority of text messages.

Deb wanted me to know that Harvey Ball never trademarked the Smiley, and so he never made anything off it other than about fifty bucks for the original drawing. But in the 1990s Walmart tried to copyright it, which led to a court (Deb couldn’t tell me exactly which one) decreeing that they couldn’t claim credit for Harvey’s work. Or something like that.
After visiting the museum I made a pilgrimage to pay my respects to Harvey Ball. I think you can guess where this is leading:

It was time to get back on the road, and once Worcester was in my rearview mirror, US 20 settled into the kind of road I’ve been longing for: rolling hills, a lane or two each direction, and a route smack-dab through the middle of numerous small towns.

Next up was the town of Indian Orchard, a small village on the outskirts of Springfield, Mass. Now, alert readers may recall that about a dozen years ago I discovered a large Boilard clan living in the northeast. One roguish member of this Boilard branch of the family tree was my grandfather, Henry “Red” Boilard. You can read about him here on my website. Anyway, Henry had an uncle named Adelard Boilard, who founded Boilard and Sons Lumber in Indian Orchard in 1936.

So, since US 20 goes right by Indian Orchard, I figured I’d pay a visit to the old family business at 476 Oak Street. The building still stands on the same site, but as of a couple of years ago Boilard and Sons got purchased by Koopman’s Lumber. The name of the business changed, but next to the front door there’s this plaque that acknowledges the lineage.


I went into the store hoping that maybe someone remembered the old Boilard family. I explained to the man behind the counter that my name is Steve Boilard, and that I’m related to the family that founded the store. Was he familiar with the history? The guy, whose name is Bob, did indeed know the history and explained how the family ran the place for over 85 years. I asked him if any family members were still involved with the operation. He said, “Well, there’s me.” His name is Bob Boilard…Adelard Boilard’s grandson. Talk about burying the lede! I guess that proves he’s a Boilard after all.

Bob gave me directions to the local cemetery (another Boilard trademark) and suggested I pay a visit to Adelard Boilard. Soon I was at Saint Aloysius cemetery…but finding Adelard would be like a needle in a haystack. As luck would have it, I ran into a cemetery employee named John, but he said the formal directory was in another part of town, and it wasn’t open today. At my obvious disappointment, he lowered his voice conspiratorially and said, “Well, we can see if maybe there’s anything helpful in the garage.”

He led me into a dark and dusty building, and asked me when Adelard died. “December of 1981,” said I. John then produced a worn and dusty journal and flipped the pages to December. It had records for all burials that month. No Boilard. “Sometimes they didn’t get recorded,” he explained. But as I was about to turn away empty handed, he said “Wait–these are recorded by date of burial, not date of death.” He pulled out the 1982 journal, and turned to January:

The journal included DaVinci-code-like notations next to the name, which John then used to locate the grave on an ancient plot map.

And with that information, my friends, I was able to locate the Boilard marker, under which are buried Adelard, his wife Lillian, and several other Boilards.

There’s one more postscript to this story: when my Aunt Mary (one of the east coast Boilards) learned of my Route 20 trip, she told me there’s another relative I need to visit in Indian Orchard. Phyllis Emet (nee Boilard). Phyllis’ grandmother was Adelard Boilard’s sister. I guess that makes Phyllis Adelard’s grand-niece? (Somebody please help me with this!) Anyway, Phyllis is 90 years old and has encyclopedic knowledge of the Boilard family history. I spent a delightful hour getting filled in on family lore.

After visiting with Phyllis I stumbled upon some interesting (non-Boilard) history in the town of Chester (pop: 1,250), but I think I’ll save that tomorrow as this post is getting long and the jet lag is kicking in. I will end with the…
BOTD

I had my dinner and my Beer of the Day at a place called Barrington Brewery in the town of Great Barrington, Mass (pop: 7,200). I didn’t realize until I saw the bartender’s polo shirt that I’m in the Berkshires. It’s admittedly a very nice environment around here.
On the bartender’s recommendation, I had a pint of the Barrington Brown Ale (5.4 percent alcohol, which barely exceeds the alcohol you’d get from the brandy-flavored chocolates your grandma kept in a dish at Christmas time). After all my other great successes today, I should have known my luck couldn’t hold out. This ale is the color of Lipton Iced Tea, and it’s similarly uncarbonated. It has no discernible strong flavors at all. The mouthfeel is positively watery. It reminds me of dishwater, with notes of dirty straw and potato peels. The finish evokes soggy Cheerios. This is a spectacularly forgettable beer. 1 star.