bridges · California history · cemeteries · Road trips · trains

The Placerville Chronicles–Day 1

This morning I picked up my rental car in Placerville, California, and headed in the direction of Placerville, Colorado–some 900 miles to the east. (For those coming late to this story, the details are here.)

As I left Placerville I passed this mural that honors John Albert “Snowshoe” Thompson, a Norwegian immigrant who settled in Placerville in the mid 19th century. Every winter for 20 years (1856-1876) he made a twice-monthly trip over the Sierra Nevada range to deliver the mail. He made the 90-mile trek on skis (despite his “Snowshoe” nickname) from Placerville to settlements in Nevada.

Unlike Snowshoe Thompson, I chose an easier passage over the mountain, driving a Nissan on US 50 over Echo Summit. I ended up in a little tourist trap of a town called Genoa, NV (pop: 1,300). Genoa brags that it’s the oldest settlement in Nevada…but I was struck by something that’s more relevant to this journey: Genoa was the eastern terminus of Snowshoe Thompson’s mail delivery route. And they have a statue to commemorate the fact.

Snowshoe Thompson, doing his Gorton’s Fisherman impression.

At some point Snowshoe Thompson moved his residence from Placerville to Genoa. In fact, Genoa became his final resting place.

The Postman Resteth.
Those pruning shears on the face of his tombstone presumably are meant to be skis. But who knows, given the misspelling of his last name.

Having appropriately honored this (quasi-)native son of Placerville, CA, it was time to continue my journey toward Placerville, CO. To do this, I passed through the “independent and sovereign nation” of Molossia.

What, you’ve never heard of Molossia? Neither had I. But it seems that there are about 11 acres of land in the town of Dayton, Nevada, whose owner (Kevin Baugh) has declared to be a sovereign nation. Molossia claims to have its own currency, postal service, navy, railroad, and various other trappings of a proper nation. President Baugh does have to pay property taxes to the county assessor, but he calls this “foreign aid.” Molassia’s back story is actually quite interesting and entertaining; if you’re interested, you should check their Wikipedia entry or their actual website.

The president of Molossia is very clear that you need to arrange your visit ahead of time. So a few weeks I emailed His Excellency, and got this response:

Steve, Greetings, and thank you for your interest in visiting our nation as a part of your travel blog. It is an honor.

I regret that we will be unable to host your visit to our nation on that date. … There are other events and activities taking place in Molossia on those dates, thus we will not be able to welcome you to our nation. My apologies.  Hopefully you will make it back out this way on a future tour date and we will be more than happy to welcome you to Molossia then.

Regards,

His Excellency President Kevin Baugh
Republic of Molossia

Undeterred, when I came to Dayton I drove up to the border of Molossia. Conveniently, there was an open parking spot.

The Molossian flag was flying proudly, and a sign made clear that I was indeed about to leave the United States.

A sign next to a bench even invited me to “take a seat in a foreign country.”

Despite my inability to secure a reservation, I decided to approach the customs building. Alas, it was locked up.

So I had no choice but to follow the signs back to the United States.

I plan to try to get on Molossia’s official tour list for 2026. When I have a date, I will announce it on this blog in case any of my loyal readers want to join my delegation. But for now, I had to bid a sad farewell to Molossia.

Almost all the remainder of today’s journey involved traveling US 50 across Nevada’s enchantingly bleak Great Basin. This stretch of highway is often called “The Loneliest Highway in America.” I’ve driven it several times (see my blog post here) and I always find it to be relaxing and contemplative. Today was no exception. Here are a few pictures to give you a sense of the landscape:

Inevitably, even out here in the middle of nowhere, you run into jackasses…
Speaking of the middle of nowhere…
One of the few watering holes along the way, in Austin, NV.

As the sunlight was wanting I stopped for the night in Ely, NV (pop: 3,900). Ely is well known for its superb railroad museum and heritage railway, but beyond that there isn’t much besides smoky casinos. I took a room at the Jailhouse Motel, whose reception desk is inside the adjoining smoky casino.

Also in the casino was something that passes for a bar, so I figured I’d try to get my Brew of the Day. But the beer selection was positively abysmal, and each seat at the bar was equipped with a huge, noisy video poker terminal. Looking at the bar’s sad patrons, I mumbled “terminal indeed,” and headed across the street to my room.

Hardy-har-har.

BRIDGE CORNER!

Although we don’t have a BOTD for today, we can offer you this 1906 railroad bridge over the Carson River in Fallon, NV:

As should be painfully obvious, this is a Pratt subdivided through-truss bridge. And, as a steel marker certifies, it’s made by the American Bridge Company of New York.

OK…thanks for indulging me. Tomorrow we’ll return to the BOTD.

California history · Road trips · trains

Tale of Two Cities

I’ve called many places “home” during my many years here on this big blue marble. Currently, I hang my hat in Placerville, California—a medium-sized town halfway between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe on US 50. Placerville started out as a mining camp during the California Gold Rush, and today it is the county seat of El Dorado County. And it may or may not be where Edgar Allan spent his final years, incognito.

The settlement was originally known as “Hangtown” because of the way justice was meted out from a big oak tree on Main Street. After the town got bigger and more respectable it changed its name to Placerville—a reference to the placer mining (that is, the relatively simple collection of gold from stream beds) which characterized the first years of the Gold Rush.

In addition to its gold mining heritage, Placerville is steeped in transportation history. Spurned by the original transcontinental railroad, Placerville was the eastern terminus of the Placerville and Sacramento Valley Railroad. It also served as a relay station for the Pony Express, and it’s where John Studebaker made his fortune selling wheelbarrows before he went back east to produce automobiles. (See my earlier blog post for more on these last two items.)

Faithful reproduction of Placerville’s 1889 depot. Placerville had hoped to be a stop on the original transcontinental railroad, but a more northerly route through Truckee was chosen.

So, Placerville is a historic town with a unique and colorful history all its own. And yet about a month ago, my brother-in-law Scott was in Colorado and came across this sign:

Who knew?? It seems there’s a second Placerville about 900 miles to the east. Evidently this eastern upstart was founded on Colorado’s San Miguel River in 1878, about three decades after “my” Placerville.

Photo c/o Western Mining History.

The two Placervilles presumably take their name from their shared history of placer mining. And yet there are significant differences: California’s Placerville sits at about 1800 feet in the Sierra foothills, while Colorado’s Placerville is perched at 7300 feet in the Rocky Mountains. The California version has a population of about 10,700, while the eastern upstart only has about 3 percent as many souls.

ChatGPT generated this image for me…and seems to have some trouble with spelling.

So, what to do with this discovery of Placerville’s doppelganger? Why, plan a Placerville-to-Placerville road trip, of course! And that trip starts tomorrow morning. To spice things up, my route is going to take me through a foreign nation. All will be revealed over the next couple of days. Stay tuned!

2024 Halloween treats · Halloween · Halloween candy

The Revenge of Frédéric Brochet

Ah, it’s that magical time of the year again. And I refer, of course, to the brief period near the end of summer when manufacturers of all manner of cookies, candies, breakfast cereals, and even, it seems, catfood will temporarily re-configure their products with some kind of nod to Halloween. The most notable and delicious example of this is the annual reappearance of Halloween Oreos.

Attentive readers will recall my earlier review of Halloween Oreos, in which I asserted Halloween Oreos are the most delicious Oreos of all. Now, I know there are some naysayers out there who disagree, claiming that there is no difference between the taste of regular Oreos and the Halloween version. But what do you have to back up that heresy? I mean, other than some vague comment about “same great taste” on the packaging?

2025 edition is now available!
…and the packaging glows in the dark!

Now, I’m willing to admit that the only difference, ingredients-wise, in the Halloween Oreo is the addition of a little orange food coloring, which is essentially flavorless. But that’s totally missing the point. There is so much more to taste than mere flavor. The spooky Halloween shapes, the Halloween-themed packaging, and most of all the pumpkin-orange filling all contribute to the full taste experience (what people in the business call “FTE”).

OK, I totally made up that part about the term “FTE.” But there is sound science backing up how appearance affects perceived taste. In 2001 a French neurophysiologist by the name of Frédéric Brochet added flavorless red food coloring to white wine, which had an enormous effect upon how professional wine tasters perceived the wine. Similarly, a 2007 experiment presented school kids with identical food, some of which was wrapped in McDonald’s packaging and some that was in generic packaging. The kids preferred the taste of the food in the branded packaging. And then, in 2015, Italian researchers found that the perceived sweetness of a dessert was affected by the color of the plate on which it was served. I’m not making any of this up.

So, yes, our enjoyment of a food depends in part upon its appearance. Ergo, Halloween Oreos can taste better than regular ones! QED.

NEWS BULLETIN: Loyal reader and favorite daughter-in-law Katelyn informs me that this year Nabisco is also releasing a second, alternate version of their Halloween Oreos, with both orange and green creme in the middle. Heart be still! I have been methodically combing the grocery aisles in the greater Placerville area to find a package, but so far have come up empty-handed. Please report any sightings to this blog.

Wanted: Dead or Alive

Anyway, I say all this by way of introduction to Krispy Kreme’s new Harry Potter donuts. I’m not sure if these are meant as Halloween offerings, or perhaps just a back-to-school promotion, but either way I find them captivating and intriguing. And I say this as someone who has never read a Harry Potter book or watched a Harry Potter movie. Seriously.

In fact, the only reason I know about this is because loyal reader Sara S alerted me, noting that they seemed right up my alley. Right you are, Sara!

They look good enough to eat!

So, I really have no choice but to get me some. The nearest Krispy Kreme is about an hour away, but this is the kind of sacrifice that I regularly make for my loyal readers. And thus it was that this weekend I found myself standing in line for some of these “House of Hogwarts”™ donuts.

Sadly, they were out of the Gryffindor donut (whatever that is), but I was able to nab one each of the Slytherin, Hufflepuff, and Ravenclaw donuts (whatever those are). Now, from a quick Google search (which may or may not be correct), it seems that the four “houses” are essentially dorms where the students at the Hogwarts school are housed. Each “house” supposedly is characterized by specific personality traits. Oh, and the job of assigning new arrivals to the houses is done by a “sorting hat.” And Krispy Kreme even has a special “sorting hat” donut, which will reveal your house by the color of the creme inside. Alas, my (semi-) local Krispy Kreme was out of the sorting hat donut as well. So I ended up with these three donuts:

Now, to return to our central thesis: I find these donuts to be highly tantalizing. They are bright and colorful, have a variety of textures, and those little crests on them are well-executed and unusual. It makes me wish I knew what the hell it all meant! But at the very least, I find these donuts to be playful and attractive and therefore worth trying.

I started with the Hufflepuff donut. It’s a heavily-iced donut with a custard center:

Now the advertising copy says that the filling is “brown butter toffee flavored custard,” which sounds delicious. But when I tried it, it tasted like the basic custard filling of the Boston creme donuts you find at the local AM-PM. Now, the Hufflepuff donut is also sprinkled with “cookie crumbles,” but this “feature” seemed more like the unintentional crumbs from poor storage practices. Meanwhile, the crest, which admittedly looks really cool, is NOT a white chocolate wafer (as I had hoped), but rather seems to be have been fashioned from a dried-out Gummy Bear that had been pounded flat with Harry Potter’s wand. Overall, this donut tasted OK but it was nothing special. Moving on.

The “Ravenclaw,” according to Krispy Kreme, is “gracefully dipped in a vibrant blueberry flavored icing that offers a burst of fruity flavor.” The copy-writers seem to have understood that “blueberry-iced donut” doesn’t really justify a cost of $3.59. So they decided to say it’s “gracefully dipped.” What does that even mean? And how does it affect either the flavor or the appearance? What we have here, folks, is a blueberry-iced donut. And it’s available at your local grocery store for 99 cents.

At this point, having consumed literally 600 calories (according to the “nutrition information” on the menu), I was heading into a food coma–so I let my brother Dave eat the Slytherin. He responded with a shrug.

So, what have we learned?

  1. Appearance can definitely enhance the taste of a Halloween treat, such as Halloween Oreos.
  2. But there’s a limit to how much appearance can compensate for a mediocre recipe.
  3. Perhaps understanding the references to Harry Potter lore and storylines would have salvaged the House of Hogwarts donuts. In other words, maybe the visuals can’t fully do their thing if I don’t know what I’m looking at.

Anyway, there is this new treat to look forward to this year, and this time I get the reference!

“180 FABULOUS calories! Hah, ah, ah!”

Road trips

For Your Summer Reading List

So, the summer is starting to wind down, but have you yet managed to read that great summer novel that captures your imagination, gets you thinking about the meaning of life, and has you eagerly telling your friends about the story? Well, look no further! I’ve found that book for you–and it just so happens that I’ve written it. It’s a story literally centuries in the making…sort of.

It’s titled Sundial in the Shade and it’s being released on September 15. Read on and I’ll tell you how you can get an early copy for free.

First, here’s a short description of the book:

Rael Hart’s carefree life of tagging, theft, and mild substance abuse is interrupted by a four-year stretch in the Los Angeles state prison. But he experiences an infinitely greater disruption upon his release, when he comes into possession of a cryptic journal containing an 18th-century recipe for personal redemption. His grudging effort to follow its prescription launches a transformative odyssey that involves, among other things, cigars, Milk Duds, and an ancient skeleton key.

On this journey Rael encounters several fellow-travelers with ambiguous motives, including an eccentric prison librarian, a disgraced LA Times reporter, a homicidal preacher, and an ex-girlfriend with more issues than Poor Richard’s Almanack. As Rael wrestles with the aggravating tradeoffs between a good life and a good time, he stumbles upon a destiny that’s been centuries in the making.

On September 15 the book will be available on Amazon in hardcover, paperback, and Kindle versions. But right now Goodreads is doing a “book giveaway,” which lets you enter to get a free Kindle version of the book on September 1. If you’re interested, you can sign up here. (Click on “Enter Giveway” on the left side of the screen, under the image of the book cover.) The giveaway ends on September 1. Be aware that to sign up you will need to have or create a Goodreads account. Thanks for your consideration of this offer. The more people who sign up, the higher the profile of my book on Goodreads.

New Road Trip

ChatGPT’s imagining of a “mysterious road trip.”

In other news: Next week I’ll be posting from the road as I make a 900-mile trip to a mystery location. Your only hint is that several days after I pick up my rental car in Placerville I will be in Placerville.

Oh, and this weekend we also will have a review of the new “Back to Hogwarts” collection of Krispy Kreme donuts. The things I do for you people…

Breweries · California history · Cars · Puns · Road trips

Life in the Slow Lane

With a level of complication that rivals the Normandy Invasion, my son (Ian) and I decided to rendezvous at a resort near Bend, Oregon, where we used to spend summer vacations once upon a time. Ian flew there from Vermont (which took two days, thanks to United Airlines), while I decided to drive up from Placerville along the east side of the Sierra Nevada range on US 395.

One of the more contemplative drives in California.

As alert readers will recall, I’ve driven various stretches of 395 at various times, most recently on my famous search for the remnants of the Nevada-California-Oregon narrow-gauge railroad. You can read about that trip here. Heading north on this stretch of US 395 is simultaneously one of the most contemplative and dramatic routes in California, with the craggy east slope of the Sierras on your left and lots of open range and the occasional lake on your right. Traffic is fairly sparse and the occasional towns are small and infrequent. My two favorite stops on the route–partly for their names and partly for their oasis-like qualities–are Hallelujah Junction (pop: 1) and Likely (pop: 99).

Hallelujah Junction’s sole resident.

While I didn’t cover new ground during this week’s trip up to Oregon, I did have a new rental car experience. I typically reserve the smallest, cheapest car on offer, knowing that the rental car companies will almost always “upgrade” me to an Altima because that’s pretty much the only car they actually keep on the lot. Ian correctly points out that the price difference between renting the bottom-of-the-line subcompact and just a normal sedan is only a few bucks a day. But it’s that kind of thinking that led to our current $36.2 billion national debt.

So I booked the cheap-o car. And this time they called my bluff. Meet the Mitsubishi Mirage–with three working cylinders and a total displacement (1.2 liters) that’s literally the same as my motorcycle.

78 Horsepower baby.

A little research reveals that the Mirage was the lowest-priced car available when it was manufactured in 2023. In a zen-like way, those savings come at a cost. The interior is as bare-bones as it gets, with manual seats, basic AM-FM radio, hard-plastic door panels, and a no center console of any kind.

I’ve eaten pizzas with a larger diameter than the Mirage’s spare tire.

Plus, in a throwback to the Clinton era, this is one of the last production cars to still require an old-fashioned key to get its three cylinders firing.

Remember these?

But the most remarkable thing about the Mirage is the (lack of) acceleration. This car notoriously has the slowest zero-to-sixty time of any production car. Ian did a Google search and found this review that Carbuzz did of the ten slowest cars. Here’s their take on the Mirage:

And finally, the number one slowest vehicle in America is the soon-to-be-dead Mitsubishi Mirage. It takes you an impressive 12.8 seconds to get from zero to 60 miles per hour in this sad excuse for a passenger vehicle, and it’s all thanks to the minuscule 1.2-liter three-cylinder engine that only produces 78 hp and 74 lb-ft of torque. It isn’t fast, it isn’t comfortable, it isn’t nice, and it’s pretty old. The Mirage won’t be missed.

Now, Ian’s an engineer, and he insisted that we subject this claim to empirical testing. So I stopped the Mirage on a flat stretch of road, Ian readied his stopwatch, and I stomped on the (aspirationally-named) accelerator. The analog speedometer began move, like Frankenstein’s monster on the slab. Five mph, ten mph….my fingernails and hair became noticeably longer….twenty mph…empires rose and fell….thirty, forty, fifty….North America drifted another few inches away from Europe…finally we achieved 60 mph.

The feat required 17 seconds–almost a third longer than even even CarBuzz’s incredulous estimate. On the positive side, the Mirage gets good gas mileage.

Anyway, we spent a few days near Bend simultaneously consuming water, hops, and barley. It was a relaxing break from my mile-a-minute retired life.

Then, just like that, it was time to head home. For the return trip we took US 97 from Bend to Weed, where we connected to Interstate 5 and continued south to Sacramento. A few notable items along the return trip include this decaying roadside relic in Chiloquin, OR (pop: 769).

I found an online photo from some years back that helps to clarify what it’s supposed to look like:

Is it a tapir? A cross between a horse and a cow? A dinosaur of some kind? There’s a lot of online debate about this. It’s sort of the Rorschach test of roadside kitch. Turns out it’s a remnant from a place called Thunderbeast Park that opened on this spot in the 1960s. There are some rumors on the internet that the remaining dinosaurs were relocated to a spot along highway 1 on the north coast. Ian claims we actually saw them on an earlier trip, but I think he may be hallucinating. Please let me know if you have any insights on the whereabouts of the Thunderbeasts.

Meanwhile, the town of Crescent (pop: 400) has this unusual, but better-preserved, roadside art on top of the town library. I’m assuming the bear had some meaningful connection to an earlier use of the building?

The town of Crescent also features this lumberjack, who appears to be suffering from a cervical fracture:

Near Klamath Falls we encountered this unexplained castle sitting in a field along US 97. To me it looks like a giant version of the kind of thing you’d see on a miniature golf course. Turns out it’s a trademark display from a bygone place called “Kastle Klamath,” which billed itself as a “Family Fun Land.” It had go-karts and a swimming pool and, yes, miniature golf. Like so many such places, it seems to be a victim of changing tastes in the Internet age.

Eventually we crossed back into California and came to the town of Doris (pop: 860), whose claim to fame is its 200-foot-tall flagpole. A plaque claims it is “America’s tallest flagpole.” (As of this writing, the tallest flagpole in America is actually in Wisconsin, and it stands at 400 feet. Meanwhile, the tallest flagpole in the world currently resides in Cairo, Egypt, at 662 feet.)

The southern end of US 97 terminates at Interstate 5 in the town of Weed (pop: 3,000). Located close to Mount Shasta, the town of Weed is named after Abner Weed, who founded the town when he built a lumber mill here in 1897. Today, the name provides endless opportunities for hilarious puns. For example, the town’s motto is “Weed like to welcome you.” And there are a half-dozen souvenir shops hawking T-shirts saying “I love Weed” and similar phrases that will make you the envy of Deadheads everywhere.

The historic archway to downtown Weed.

Finally, what is a road trip without a Studebaker sighting? We spotted this heavily-modified 1950 Starlight Coupe on the side of the road…where most Studebakers eventually spend a good portion of any outing.

And now, it’s time for the…

BEER OF THE DAY

The BOTD comes from McMenamins Old St. Francis School in Bend, Oregon. McMenamins is a privately-owned chain of historic structures that have been converted into pubs, restaurants, and hotels. This location had been a Catholic school which was built in 1936, and today the classrooms are hotel rooms. It also includes a full restaurant, a brewery, and movie theater, and a public pool.

Photo from The Brew Site.

The offspring and I had lunch in the back patio, and for my beverage I selected the Bamberg Obsession. It’s a Munich Helles (a lightish German beer) to which they’ve added beechwood-smoked malt.

This looks promising.

It’s a beautiful, golden beer the color of light honey. I was mesmerized simply by the look of the thing, radiating sunshine and pot-at-the-end-of-the-rainbow good luck. The taste didn’t disappoint, either. This is a refreshing beer, as you’d expect from a Helles. But the addition of the smoked malt lends a subtle complexity that keeps things interesting. It’s not overwhelming, but rather gives just a hint of peat or a distant campfire. There’s not much bitterness to this drink, which again is consistent with the Helles style. A slight sweetness also comes through. The ABV clocks in just under 5 percent. This is the Arnold Palmer of beers. Highly recommended on a warm day. 4.5 out of 5 stars.