cemeteries

Midcentury Matinee

Today’s mild temperature and ocean-scented Southern California breeze compelled me to take a ride into the heart of Los Angeles. So I headed straight up Western Avenue, which is purported to be one of the longest north-south streets in the entire county. Originating not far from my house, Western passes through a number of distinct neighborhoods, including Koreatown, Little Armenia, South Central LA, Hollywood, and others. What especially caught my eye were several structures that clearly date back to the early postwar period. A prime example is the Sandy Vitale Dance Studio in Gardena. Surely that rusted and weatherbeaten sign exhibits scars acquired while witnessing some seventy-plus years of traffic going by.

Before straight lines were a thing.

It appears that a dance studio is still operating on the upper floor. But I was unable to find out much about the business or the building online. It’s a very solid and well-preserved structure.

Bar and cocktails? That’s quite a combo!

The old building must have put me in a mid-century frame of mind, for without really thinking about it, I eventually found myself near the Toluca Lake neighbhorhood where my mother-in-law and father-in-law met and dated in the 1950s. Toluca Lake is near the movie studios of the San Fernando Valley, and adjoins North Hollywood. I was not especially interested in fighting the crowds and congestion of Hollywood, so I took refuge in a nice, leafy area that turned out to be a place called Valhalla Memorial Park. It’s a cemetery that was originally constructed in 1923 and was considered a beautiful and stately setting at the time. Unfortunately, the owners had a habit of selling the same cemetery plots to multiple individuals — in some cases, to sixteen different parties. They were convicted of fraud and the State of California took over the cemetery for some years. Today it is again privately owned, and it still receives new “residents.”

Make sure you ask for a receipt.
Take a carnation, go to jail.

It turns out that, perhaps due to its proximity to the movie industry, Valhalla is the final resting place for a number of celebrities. Now, these aren’t the huge names like Errol Flynn or Humphrey Bogart or Cary Grant. But a few of them you may have heard of. Or surely your parents did. Let me focus on three of them:

First up is Curly-Joe DeRita. As noted on his grave marker, Curly-Joe was the last of the Three Stooges.

Moe and Larry were joined at various points by Curly, Shemp, and Joe and the third Stooge, until Joe quit the act in 1958. So a new fellow named Curly-Joe was hired to round out the threesome, just as the advent of television was making the Three Stooges bigger than ever. Curly-Joe rode this wave until Larry and Moe both died in 1975. Curly-Joe lasted another 18 years — hence, “The Last Stooge.”

“Hello–Hello–HELLO!”

Buried not far from Curly Joe are the sizable remains of Oliver Hardy.

Well here’s another fine mess you’ve gotten me into.

You know him from the Laurel and Hardy films (over one hundred of them!) that were made between the 1920s and the 1950s.

You might even be one of the seventeen people that saw the 2018 biopic about them, “Stan and Ollie.” (I do recommend that movie, by the way.) But in the meantime, check out their famous “Way Out West” number:

And now, we move on to someone more obscure, and yet more fascinating: The Amazing Criswell. Born Jeron Criswell Konig in 1907, Criswell fashioned himself as a psychic, making outlandish and unfailingly incorrect predictions about culture, fashion, technology, and almost everything else.

Criswell PREDICTS!! | Turner Watson
Can you spot the word that doesn’t belong?

I learned of Criswell when I watched the 1994 Tim Burton film about Ed Wood, entitled, “Ed Wood.” It turns out Criswell was a friend of schlock director Ed Wood, and appeared in a couple of his movies. Criswell wrote books and a weekly newspaper column, appeared on television programs, released a record, and often appeared at Hollywood parties. It’s unclear to me whether Criswell was knowingly putting on a camp act, or whether he considered himself to be a serious psychic. Either way, he’s quite entertaining, predicting that “education memory pills” will be given to schoolchildren in the 1970s, that the entire American population will become overwhelmed with an unquenchable lusty desire for sex in the late 1980s, and that the world will end on August 18, 1999. Of course, only one of these predictions came true.

Criswell has a small niche in a columbarium at Valhalla. It’s not fancy by any stretch of the imagination. Maybe he figured it would be a waste of money to spurge on anything fancier, given that the entire world was scheduled to end 18 years after his death.

Just a face in the crowd. Shades of the final scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark

So there you have it: Three midcentury personalities, all spending the rest of eternity together at Valhalla Memorial Park. For me, they give rise to questions about mortality and purpose and legacy. Each of these three, of course, have long and complex back stories, and they’ve all had their time in the public spotlight. Sure, you don’t really think about these particular men very much, if at all. And yet, they’ve each made an imprint on our culture. I think we’re all a little bit richer for that.

California history · cemeteries · Road trips · Uncategorized

Stuff It In Yo’ Kern, Potsie!

It’s Springtime, I’ve had my Covid shot, so I figured it was time to take a short road trip. The basic idea was to head up through the Mojave on CA Route 14 to the town of Inyokern (so named because it straddles Inyo and Kern Counties), then head west over Walker Pass on CA Route 178. Upon reaching Lake Isabella, I’d take some winding back roads northwest over the Sierra Nevada and drop into Porterville. From there I’d make my way over to CA Route 33, and take it all the way down to Ventura. From there I’d head home on US 101.

My route seems to have taken on a Texas shape…

There was particular attraction about this route: it would give me a second chance to take that winding back road over the Sierra that I’d tried last Fall. For it was then that was stopped in my tracks by the so-called “SQF” fire. (That day is memorialized in this post from November 2020.)

So this morning I set out around 8 am. It was a perfect spring day. Soon I was heading up CA Route 14 through the desolation and despair that is the Antelope Valley.

Nobody here but us Joshua Trees.

A little further along the landscape got more interesting at Red Rock Canyon State Park.

I made a stop at Jawbone Canyon, which supposedly resembles a mandible. It’s managed by the BLM as an OHV park, but of greater interest to me is the enormous pipeline that conducts water from the Owens Valley all the way down to Los Angeles. The pipeline was the brainchild of William Mulholland, who had it constructed over a century ago. Leaving aside issues of water theft and environmental damage, it was an impressive engineering feat. I made a trip along that pipeline a couple of years ago, which you can read about here.

The pipeline at Jawbone Canyon. Jack Nicholson “nose” the back story…

While at Jawbone Canyon I happened upon a historic marker that described one Josephine “Josie” Stevens Bishop. Evidently, in addition to being a mother of seven, a school teacher, and an actress, she tried her hand at mining in this area and in 1937 discovered “the richest radium deposit known at the time.” She became famous and by leasing out her mining claim she is said to have become the richest woman in the world, for a time. The press gave her the nickname “The Radium Queen of the Desert.”

Desert Rat Josie Bishop : News Photo
The Radium Queen at her Castle.

Enriched by this story, I got back on the highway and eventually came to Inyokern (pop: 1,000). I turned onto CA Route 178 and took it up into the lower Sierra Nevada mountains. Eventually I got up to about 5,000 feet, where I encountered Walker Pass. Walker Pass was discovered by Joseph Rutherford Walker in 1834. This is the pass that the so-called “Lost 49ers” had sought as they ill-advisedly made their way across Death Valley. (Ian and I had learned about the Lost 49ers when we were in Death Valley a few months ago. See this post.)

There isn’t much in the way of civilization out this way. That’s one of the attractions of these trips — getting away from the crowds of Los Angeles and discovering California’s remote regions. Near Walker Pass I did see some signs of an earlier settlement, but what it was and what happened to it are stories unknown to me.

Passing Ghosts.

I also passed a Civil War-era cemetery.

The “Grove” part could use a good arborist.
Surprising that there are living folk still leaving mementos on this grave 140 years later.

A little further down the road I came to the village of Onyx (pop: 475). The Onyx Store, established in 1861, is said to be the oldest continually-operating store in the entire state. Since it was getting to be lunchtime, I figured I stop for a sandwich. Inside the store is all manner of merchandise, as one would expect in a general store. They also had a deli counter, and I set my sights on the “buckaroo plate” which promised a huge sandwich will all the trimmings. Alas, there was only one employee in the store, and she had evidently been hit with that alien ray from Star Trek that gets you to slow down to one-hundredth of normal speed. I waited for 10 minutes while she prepared the sandwich for the truck driver that was waiting. When she finally finished, I opened my mouth to place my order when the human statue pointed to a family of five and said “they were ahead of you.” I did a quick mental calculation and decided that I would probably get my lunch quicker if I just drove to the next town. Which I did.

Don’t expect “fast food.”

The next town turned out to be Lake Isabella (pop: 3,500). The town was preceded by the town of Isabella (no “Lake”), and was named after Spain’s Queen Isabella in 1893. (Evidently the Columbian Exposition of 1893 had resurrected interested in Queen Izzy.) But then, in 1953, the nearby Kern River was dammed and the newly-created reservoir inundated the original townsite. So the town of Lake Isabella was founded.

Near the dam is a place called “The Dam Korner” which, although it calls itself a “coffee shop,” serves all manner of burgers and sandwiches. So I ordered the special, which was a bacon and blue (not bleu, you understand; this is Kern County) burger with fries. The burger must have had close to a pound of meat, and there must have been a half a cup of blue/bleu cheese. The bacon was thick and plentiful. It was truly an impressive meal. It would have been great with a beer, but they only had the most basic, uninteresting panther piss. (This is what the waitress called it.) So I had it with water.

My check from lunch. Seems they can’t keep their lies straight about what constitutes a 20% tip.

My next stop was Kernville (pop: 1,300), which is just ten or 15 minutes further up along the lake shore. Like Isabella, Kernville was inundated when the dam was constructed, so the town was relocated on higher ground. It’s actually a fairly charming town, and it seemed to be bustling. I stopped at the Kern River Brewing Company to get that beer I’d missed at the Dam Korner. The place was crowded, but I found myself a seat on the patio and I ordered an imperial stout. (See the end of this post for my review of the Brew of the Day.) I asked the waitress if it’s always this busy, and she said the crowd is mainly due to Spring Break. Oh yeah. I forgot about that. It seems Kernville attracts a lot of the young ‘uns who want to hike or raft or, well, drink.

Welcome oasis in a county full of crappy beer.

Fortified with my Stout, I headed up into the mountains to re-try the route that eluded me last fall. I was heading along “Mountain Highway 99,” and all was right with the world. I was the only one on the road, the sky was blue, the sun was warm, and the trees were wearing their spring green.

And then.

Curses! Foiled again!

Once again, I was forced to turn back. It’s still not entirely clear to me why the road was closed this time, but it seems like it’s a “seasonal” closing that lasts until all the mountain snow has melted. I looked at my map, and decided to re-route myself over the Sierra range on CA 155. So I went back to Lake Isabella, where CA-155 begins, and drove for 75 miles to its terminus in Delano. This is where I’m spending the night.

Like most of the routes over the Sierras, CA 155 is a winding, beautiful, and soul-enriching road. It makes an elevation gain of about 6,000 feet before dropping down to the floor of California’s Central Valley. The scenery changes constantly, and once again I encountered almost no other drivers. It was a worthy detour.

Tomorrow I head over to CA Route 33, and drive south til I cross the Transverse Ranges and enter Ventura.

BREW OF THE DAY

Kern River Brewing Company had two different Imperial Stouts on tap. To help me decide, I was offered a taste of each. Both weighed in at 10.5% ABV. But one was much sweeter than the other. I went with the other.

My chosen beer was their Class X Imperial Stout. (It’s pronounced “Class Ten,” by the way. Like a yokel, I’d mistakenly called it “Class Eks.” It’s the opposite of the possibly apocryphal story about the news anchor in the 1960s who referred to the black Muslim activist as “Malcolm Ten.”)

I give it a X.

Anyway, the beer: Nectar Of The Gods. This stuff is amazing. It has the color of espresso and the consistency of chocolate milk. The taste is a veritable symphony of carbonized foodstuffs: burnt marshmallow, burnt molasses, and maybe some bacon fond and a little roux. Midway through you taste some Folgers coffee and Dr Pepper. Finally, there’s a distinct sense of burnt toast on the finish. And they serve it on nitro (that is, it’s infused with nitrogen, which smooths the beer out a bit.) I’m serious; this is one of the best imperial stouts I’ve had.