2026 Oktoberfest Pretzels

Pretzel #18: An Epiphany

The Market On Main, Placerville, CA

Today I had an epiphany. I don’t mean the Epiphany, as when the Wise Men encountered baby Jesus. For starters, that Epiphany is celebrated on January 6…a date that in recent years has taken on somewhat more sinister connotations.

No, I’m talking about a more run-of-the-mill epiphany, whereby I realized a profound truth. Are you ready to hear it? Get out your notebook and lick your pencil point (if you’ll pardon the expression). Are you sitting down? OK, here’s my big realization:

The physical world around us was created by many different people who didn’t much coordinate their actions.

OK, I know that doesn’t seem very profound. But ruminate on this for a minute. The house you live in, the neighbor’s house that you have to look at every day while you putter in your garden, the coffee shop where you get your cappuccino, the park where you walk your dog, the Quick Quack where you wash your car, the donut place where you get crullers every Saturday, the road you take to get there…all this built environment was created over many years by many different people (or groups of people) with very different motivations and intentions and senses of aesthetics and function. Sure, you might live in a so-called “planned community” like most of Irvine, CA or maybe Moscow. But even then, your little piece of the world grew out of many decisions and motivations and actions that have nothing to do with you. Pretty much the most we can do to match our surrounding to our tastes is to move somewhere that feels right for us. But even then, we are in the debt of those who came before.

I was thinking about all this because I was looking for a local pretzel (as one does), and Google told me to check out a place called The Market on Main in Placerville. I’ve visited Placerville’s Main Street many, many times, but I don’t remember anything called Market on Main. So I followed Google’s directions and found myself in front of a tidy clapboard building with a wrap-around porch and bright umbrellas.

Photo from Facebook.

I must have walked by or driven past this place many times, but it never made an impression on me. I guess it’s kind of the reverse of déjà vu. It turns out the building, which is called the J. Wonderly House, dates back to the Gold Rush. It’s been a private home, various types of stores, and now it’s a restaurant. It seemed inviting enough, so I went up the walk and entered the place.

I ended up speaking with the owners, Charissa and Anthony De Leon, who opened the place four years ago. And this is when I was struck by my epiphany. Had they not been willing to quit their jobs and put a bunch of money into this building–just before Covid shut things down, by the way–this building would still be a yarn store. And if earlier owners hadn’t gotten involved, it would still be a blacksmith’s house.

Lots of change, c/o lots of individuals.

My point is that we all benefit (or, to be sure, sometimes are harmed) by investments and construction projects of our fellow citizens. And that also means that others are affected by what we do. All of which has me thinking I should really re-paint my house….

So God bless the small business owners, the neighborhood clean-up volunteers, the family with the huge display of Halloween decorations in the front yard, and the others who are creating our communities.

But to get back to my pretzel mission: The Market On Main does indeed have a soft pretzel, so I ordered one. It turns out they get them from a Milwaukee-based (!) company, because, according to Charissa, none of the local options were acceptable. I’m coming to understand that making your pretzels is a pretty tall order for a small restaurant, and I’m even coming to accept it. But I was disappointed to hear that Market on Main neither makes nor serves beer cheese with their pretzels. This, to me, is like not serving ketchup with French fries. As an alternative, they offered me “queso,” which of course is simply the Spanish word for cheese. But in Tex-Mex cuisine I understand it’s essentially a melted cheese dip, which, I suppose, could be considered analogous to beer cheese, but without the beer. Throwing caution to the wind, I took the queso.

The pretzel arrived with the promised queso (which to me looked kind of colorless and thus not promising) as well as some bright-yellow French’s mustard which I promptly tossed in the garbage. I took a bite of the pretzel without queso, and I thought it was a little bready. Not bad, but just a little puffy. The taste was slightly sweet, and there was definite maltiness on the finish.

Then I tried it with queso.

Friends, I’m a man who’s willing to admit he was wrong. And I was wrong to turn up my nose at the idea of queso as a substitute for beer cheese. This stuff was magical. It was rich and warm and creamy. What’s more, it complemented the pretzel perfectly. The saltiness of the queso balanced the sweetness of the pretzel. More importantly, the queso’s creaminess neutralized the breadiness of the pretzel, creating a combined mouthfeel that was chewy, warm, and satisfying. I must even admit that I sopped up every last bit of that queso; I even found myself wishing there had been a little more.

I’m not sure I’m willing to say that queso is superior to beer cheese. I still missed that beery flavor that really leverages the malt in the pretzel. But I do feel that queso is a damn good substitute, and perhaps it was the perfect complement for this particular, Milwaukee-based pretzel.

4.5 stars, which probably could have been 5 stars with a little beer in the mixture.

PS: If you find yourself in Placerville, you really need to check out Market on Main. Even if you’re not looking for a pretzel, this place has a great vibe, awesome staff, and great attention to their food.

PRETZEL TRIVIA

Every couple of months my brother and I get together to grab a bite and watch an old movie at the historic Tower theater in Sacramento. (Readers of a certain age might remember the international music juggernaut called Tower Records; it all started here at the Tower drugstore, attached to the Tower Theater, in 1960.)

Being Boilards, my brother and I invariably follow the same routine: We get a sandwich at Togo’s at precisely 5:50 pm, then watch a 1960’s-era movie at the Tower at 7 pm. We always sit in the same seats.

What I want to call your attention to is Togo’s. This west coast-based chain is widely understood to have one of the best hot pastrami sandwiches on the market–juicy, reasonably lean, with a perfect mix of veggies and sauces. But in 2018, they introduced a new version of this classic: the Pretzelrami.

It’s essentially the same sandwich, but on a pretzel bun. Now, I think one could argue about whether this is truly a “pretzel” bun or not. For starters, it doesn’t have the classic pretzel shape. The texture is also off, as it’s much more bready than a true pretzel. But the ingredients are similar and the dough is exposed to an alkaline bath prior to baking, so it ends up with a lot of the pretzel flavor. So let’s say that the bun is pretzelish.

Anyway, I’m a sucker for this sandwich (#71 on Togo’s menu, if you’re interested) which to me is the ideal sandwich: hot, filling, flavorful, juicy, and 840 calories (I’m not making this up). I was ordering it every time I went into Togos. Then, around 2022, they discontinued it without explanation. The sandwich makers at Togo’s were still wearing the T-shirts that said “Pretzelrami!”, but when I asked about it they just shrugged and said “it’s an old shirt.” I cannot express my disappointment at having to switch back to the regular old hot pastrami sandwich (#9).

And then, a miracle. On June 30, 2025, Togo’s announced the return of the Pretzelrami….on an “upgraded” pretzel roll. If you live anywhere near a Togo’s, I encourage you to go out and get one before they disappear again.

California history · movie theaters · Road trips · trains

Tale of two cities

Today I took a ride down to the city of Kingsburg, CA (pop: 13,000). Kingsburg sits on highway 99, smack-dab in the middle of the state.

Kingsburg is the big red dot blotting out Fresno.

Alert readers will recall that I came through Kingsburg last fall and fell in love with its historic railroad depot. I ended up making a small contribution toward their “1238 Project,” in which they are taking possession of a 1918 Southern Pacific steam locomotive that’s been sitting in a park in Fresno since 1956. As a bonus, my humble contribution earned me membership in the “Friends of the Historic Kingsburg Depot,” which holds monthly meetings about their activities at the depot. So today I said “What the heck; I’ll make the 200-mile drive for this evening’s meeting and get the latest update on the 1238 Project.”

I was running a little ahead of time, so I killed an hour and a half exploring the city of Fresno (pop: 546,000), which is about 20 miles north of Kingsburg. Now, Fresno is a much-maligned city, frequently appearing on lists of the worst places to live in California. It has above-average levels of homelessness, drug use, air pollution, and unemployment. Like much of the Central Valley it experiences extreme temperatures in the summer and winter. And much of the city comprises a run-down urban core surrounded by ugly sprawl. But despite all this, Fresno has a plucky population and a rich history that is, to greater and lesser extents, being preserved. Here are just a few examples that I saw today:

Civic pride is evident in this mural on Tuolumne Street in downtown Fresno.

Fresno has several historic movie palaces in various states of preservation. Two of them (the Crest and the Tower) share names with two semi-famous theaters in Sacramento. Fresno’s 1948 Crest Theater is in particularly rough shape; the exterior is pretty shabby, and the air conditioning doesn’t work. And yet, they show movies every weekend for five bucks!

The terrazzo floor is nice, though.

I wasn’t able to get inside, but I’m told the interior is in better shape than the exterior. And I do appreciate that they’re keeping the theater open, even though they obviously have a lot of deferred maintenance. It’s lovable in a “little engine that could” kind of way.

Next up is the Tower Theater. It’s the centerpiece of Fresno’s “Tower District”–an artsy neighborhood with coffee shops, art galleries, restaurants, and other businesses that give the area a modest but palpable energy. It’s still a little gritty, but it’s definitely a viable destination for an evening out. The Tower Theater itself is an art deco movie palace built in 1939, that now serves as a 761-seat performing arts center.

I didn’t have time to stick around til nightfall, but I’m told the Tower’s neon dominates the district at night. Here’s a photo from a local Fresno news station.

File photo from Fox26 News.

We now move to the most striking movie palace I saw today in Fresno: The Warnors Theater. Opened in 1928, it was owned by the renowned Alexander Pantages. (Surely you’ve heard of the Pantages Theater in Los Angeles?) The theater originally was called The Pantages Theater, then changed to The Warner Theater in 1929, when Warner Brothers bought it. Warner Bros sold it in the 1960s, and the new owners changed the “e” to an “o” in a half-hearted concession to trademark requirements.

Pantages’ fortress.
Sometimes more is more. Or Moor, if you catch my drift.
Box office and lobby. Check out that ceiling!

Warnors has a large stage, seating for 2,100 people(!), and the original 1928 Robert Morgan pipe organ. The theater serves as a popular performing arts center bringing many national and international acts to Fresno.

So, I think it’s fair to say that Fresno is making an effort to support the arts. I think this is a key component to revitalizing the city.

I did encounter other examples of civic pride–here I’ll share just two more. First, there’s an impressive, beautifully-restored 1894 water tower. Originally owned by a private water utility, the tower’s 250,000-gallon tank was drained in the 1960s and sold to the city. It was restored about 25 years ago, and has served as a visitor’s bureau and, most recently, as the Frida Cafe.

Now that’s a water tower.

My final example of Fresno’s civic pride is its historic railroad depot. It was constructed by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe in 1899. Santa Fe stopped passenger service to the station in 1966 and completely shuttered the station in the early 1990s. Fresno civic leaders, God bless ’em, purchased the decaying the station in 2003, spent 6 million bucks restoring it, and re-opened it for Amtrak service in 2005.

Fresno Depot, looking a bit like a La Quinta Inn.

Just as I was leaving, the San Joaquin arrived. There was a good crowd of people boarding at the platform. The station seems to be a very solid transportation hub for the city.

And this mention of trains brings us back to the original purpose of this trip. Twenty minutes after I left Fresno I arrived in Kingsburg, just in time for the Friends of the Historic Kingsburg Depot meeting. It’s a friendly and dedicated group of people, all donating their time toward the betterment of their community. And I think that’s the moral of today’s blog post.

At the meeting I learned that the 1238 steam locomotive is scheduled to be trucked to Kingsburg on two flatbed trailers in early May. I hope I’ll be able to return for that operation, which is something you don’t see every day. I’ll leave you with a photo I took of the space next to the depot that volunteers are preparing for the steam locomotive, complete with some fancy red fencing. Beneath that is a photo of the locomotive itself, still cooling its heels in Fresno, waiting.

Paging John Henry…
Photo from GV Wire.